June 22, 2020

Frizz-Free Curls in Humidity + Ingredients to Avoid & to Use

Your ultimate guide to climate, ingredients, step-by-step routine, styling tips, and the best products for humidity.

Humidity is the enemy of naturally curly hair. Nothing is worse than spending time on your hair on wash day only to step outside in the summer and your curls go flat and frizzy.

Many people can use a wide range of curly hair products and be perfectly fine, however those that are really battling frizz and live in a humid environment should look into the ingredients in their products. Understanding what humectants are, film-forming humectants, anti-humectants, and anti-humidity ingredients will help you get better results in the summer months.

In this video, I explain the ingredients to avoid in humdity, and ones to incorporate in your products. I also share a step-by-step routine for frizz-free curly hair that is humidity-proof.

Dew Points vs. Humidity

How do you know if it’s humid outside? Beside’s the sticky wet feeling when you step outside, you can also view the dew point and humidity data on most weather apps. I use The Weather Channel app, and when I scroll down towards the bottom and can see these details.

Dew point is the temperature at which water vapor begins to condense. This is represented as degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius.

Humidity is the amount of moisture in the air, represented as a percent. The higher the percent, the more humid it is outside.

Dry air: Below 35°F dew point
Ideal range for curls: 35°F – 60%°F dew point
Damp air: Above 60°F dew point

Humectants

Glycerin
Sorbitol
PVP
Propylene Glycol

Humectants are ingredients commonly found in curly hair products that help moisturize the hair. The attract water molecules from the air and bind them to your hair. These ingredients are great for keeping curls moisturized, bouncy, and soft.

However the downside to humectants when you live in a humid climate is that they may attract too much water to your cause, causing the cuticle to swell, resulting in frizz. Curls may fall limp, loose their hold, and appear dry.

If you live in a very dry climate, you should also avoid humectants because they may cause moisture to escape your hair leading to dryness, frizz, and split ends.

I wouldn’t say cut out humectants completely, rather use products that contain film-forming humectants instead, and incorporate anti-humectants.

Film-Forming Humectants

Aloe vera
Honey
Flaxseed
Pectin
Slippery elm
Marshmallow root
Seaweed extract
Hydrolyzed proteins

Film-forming humectants are ingredients that not only moisturize the hair, but also help prevent moisture from escaping your curls. These are great for those in a dry climate or those that have low porosity hair. They create a protective film that slows water loss.

Incorporate humectants in the base layer of your routine such as conditioner, leave-in conditioner, and curl creams.

Film-forming humectants can be used in all climates. However, if you live in extreme humidity, it is best to also incorporate anti-humectants.

Emollients/Occlusives

Butters (shea butter, cocoa butter, etc.)
Sealing Oils (jojoba oil, rice bran oil, argan oil)
Hydrogenated castor oil
Beeswax
Esters
Petrolatum (not CG-friendly, need sulfate to remove)
Mineral oil (not CG-friendly, need sulfate to remove)
Silicones (not CG-friendly, need sulfate to remove)

Emollients and occlusives are sealing ingredients that slow the water loss from your hair, and also repel water. These are similar to film-forming humectants but are more effective in blocking humidity. Many of these ingredients are heavy, can weigh down, and build up on fine curly hair and/or low porosity hair.

Incorporate these ingredients in the final step of your hair routine, such as gel, mousse, and/or oil serums.

Anti-Humidity Polyquats & Polymers

Polyquaternium
PVA/VP Copolymer
Acrylates copolymer
Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer

Humidity resistant ingredients are often synthetic, and designed to create a film on the hair to repel water and provide hold. These are my personal favorite since I have high-porosity hair that is extremely sensitive to humidity. They also help curls keep their shape because of the strong hold properties. You will most likely find these in gel and mousse products.

Caution

Be sure to clarify more frequently when incorporating many polyquats, polymers, and emollients. Hair that has build up can become dehydrated, weighed down, and brittle. Click here to watch my video on clarifying for beginners.

Step-by-Step Styling Routine for Humidity

Moisturize
If you have dry hair, incorporate humectants and film-forming humectants in your conditioner, leave-in conditioner, and/or curl cream. Opt for emollients if you have coarse hair.
Seal
Add hold using a strong hold gel or mousse that contains polyquats or polymers. Gel may contain humectants if there are also polyquats or polymers incorporated in the ingredients list. Also, if there is a humectant low on the ingredients list it is lower in concentration and not a concern.
Finish
Lock in the moisture and block out humdity by sealing hair with an occlusive such as an oil. Another option is to use an alcohol-free hairspray that contains polymers.

Styling Tips for Humidity

Skip a leave-in or cream and just use a gel or a mousse if your hair is properly moisturized and not damaged. This will prevent curls from being weighed down and increase volume.
Apply gel or mousse in sections to ensure all the hair is coated to prevent frizz on the inside laters. Comb products through to ensure even distribution and prevent patchy frizz.
Squeeze out excess water using a HairRepear towel or T-shirt before diffusing to reduce drying time.
Add another light glaze of gel or mousse before diffusing.
Dry hair with a diffuser instead of air drying to lock the cast in quickly to prevent frizz from forming.
Don’t scrunch out too much of the crunch after it’s dry. Leave in the gel cast to protect your hair from frizz and make your style last for the week. It will gradually soften throughout the day.