February 21, 2022

Air Drying vs. Diffusing Compared – Which is healthier & lasts longer?

Do you prefer air drying, or diffusing your curly hair? Everyone has different preferences, and the results can be very different depending on your hair type, products, and technique.

In today’s video, I’m going to show you a styling routine where diffuse, and then another routine using the exact same products but with air drying. Then compare the results side by side and how long my curls last after wash day.

We’re also going to discuss the pros and cons of each, and which method is healthier for your hair type.

I first wanted to clarify that there is no right or wrong way to do your hair. If you like air-drying your hair, this is not intended to convince you that you need to stop air drying. My goal is to present the pros and cons that I had with both methods to help you identify if air drying or diffusing is causing any of your hair issues.

Get the Shark HyperAir & IQ-Curl Defining Diffuser here that I will be using in this video.

The Styling Routine

Start with clean, towel-dried hair. Spritz the lengths with water.
Apply the LUS All-in-One Curly Styler for moisture. Brush through.
Section hair and apply the LUS Irish Sea Moss Gel
Brush style if desired to create longer-lasting definition
Continue through each section, then scrunch with a Hair Repear Towel once finished to absorb excess water.
Glaze a light layer of gel mixed with some water to tame any remaining frizzy areas
Diffuse or air dry
Fluff and scrunch out any unwanted crunch if desired.

How to Diffuse

After applying styling products and scrunching out excess water with a hair towel, turn your hairdryer to the lowest heat and lowest speed setting.
Hover around your hair for a few minutes until the gel cast begins to form. I like to plop my curls over my counter while hovering to prevent them from drying elongated.
Once you start to feel a cast, you won’t get as much frizz by touching your hair. Cup the ends of the hair into the diffuser bowl and press up towards your scalp. You can do this upside down or upright. You can also point your dryer towards your head to avoid frizz instead of directing it straight up.
Avoid holding the dryer in the same place for too long to avoid heat damage. Continue around your head, flipping from side to side or upside down as you go. Avoid aggressive movement to prevent frizz.
Use the prongs of the diffuser attachment to lift the hair at the roots up. Hold for a few seconds and release.
Finish with cold air to set everything in place.
Once hair is 100% dry, fluff the roots and scrunch out any unwanted crunch. Leave the cast in for longer-lasting curls, especially if you’re going to bed after.

How to Air Dry

After applying styling products, scrunch out excess water with a hair towel.
Apply root clips if desired. Lift the hair at the root up in small sections and slide the clips in one at a time.
Don’t touch your hair as it’s drying and avoid excessive movement. Avoid going outside in high humidity or harsh winds.
You can remove the clips after it’s dried a bit and flip the hair gently to either side to help the air reach the scalp so it dries faster.
Once hair is 100% dry, fluff the roots and scrunch out any unwanted crunch. Leave the cast in for longer-lasting curls, especially if you’re going to bed after.

Pros & Cons of Diffusing vs. Air Drying

	Diffusing	Air Drying
Dry Time	10-30 minutes, depending on your hair’s density, products, styling techniques, & dryer temperature Hair is “done” and ready to go after diffusing	2-10+ hours, depending on your hair’s density, products, styling techniques, & climate Hair appears wet, stringy, hard, and sparse while it’s drying
Cast	Gel cast is set right away, preventing frizz	Gel cast gradually forms and then dissipates as the hair dries
Frizz	Less frizz when done properly	More frizz due to the length of time the hair stays wet, allowing frizz to form with movement
Definition	More definition and shrinkage, or create elongation while diffusing.More even length of curls.	Curls become elongated due to gravity. Uneven, stringy curl lengths for those with varying curl patterns.
Volume	More volume and root lift	Less volume and flatter roots. Root clips can be used but the volume falls.
Longevity	Curls last longer due to more gel cast and the heat “setting” the curl shape	Curls fall and become frizzy by day 2
Damage	Improper diffusing techniques or too high temperature can cause cuticle damage. Proper diffusing at a distance is not as damaging as prolonged air drying (source).	Hair staying wet for prolonged periods of time causes damage to the inner structure of the hair, the Cell Membrane Complex (source).
Cost	Requires $ to get a hairdryer and diffuser	Free
Accessibility	May not be possible for those without arm mobility, neck, or back conditions	Does not require movement

Which do you prefer? There are pros and cons of both methods, and it depends on the look you’re going for and your preferences.

There are also ways to combine both methods to reap all benefits, such as diffusing for 5-10 and then finishing off with air drying. If I was short on time, this would be my preferred method to still get some of the volume and definition from diffusing, but not have to diffuse for too long.

If you’re struggling with frizz, I recommend checking out this video about How to Diffuse without Frizz for Beginners.

To reduce your dry time whether you air dry or diffuse, watch this video on How to Reduce Drying Time.

For my Shark HyperAir vs. Dyson comparison video, click here.

And lastly, to learn more about why diffusing may be less damaging than air drying, check out Manes by Mell’s video here and read this research study.