Why Curl Patterns Change Over Time

Can your curl pattern change over time? Although the scientific evidence is limited, you cannot deny people’s experiences. I had you all submit your photos for this video if you are someone who has had a change in curl pattern, whether that is your curls becoming looser over time or tighter. I did a ton of research to try and uncover some of the causes of curl pattern changes, and I’m compiling it here for you. I’m also including my hair’s history and my theories on why my curl pattern has changed over the years.

What Determines our Curl Pattern?

Curl pattern refers to the shape of our hair strands. The curl pattern is determined by the follicles’ shape, which are the pores in our scalp that produce a hair strand. The more titled the hair follicle, the tighter the curl pattern. The shape or tilt of the hair follicle is determined by our genetics.

So can the follicle shape actually change? Sources say the shape is set for life but undergoes structural changes every few years.

The hair growth cycle has multiple stages, and the last stage is the “resting stage” when the hair falls out. The follicle shrivels up, and this is when the follicle can change in structure. To start a new cycle of hair growth, the follicle grows back to its original shape. Curly hair follicles grow back curly, but what regulates this regrowth in hair follicles is still a mystery.

Scientists believe that differences in cell behavior during hair fiber production contribute to hair shape. Environmental factors, such as chemical pollutants, diet, temperature changes, sun exposure, and other external stresses can influence genetic programming.

What factors are known to cause changes in curl shape?

Internal Factors

Internal causes will influence how the hair grows out of the scalp. These include:

• Genetics
• Hormone changes
• Aging
• Stress
• Illnesses
• Medication
• Chemotherapy
• Diet/nutrition
• Deficiencies in Iron, Vitamin D, and B12

External Factors

The lengths of our hair are technically “dead” because our hair grows from the scalp. The lengths can be impacted by what we’re putting on our hair and how we’re treating it.

Damage weakens your hair’s bonds and cuticle

• Heat tools
• Bleach: highlights and lightening the hair
• Chemical treatments: perms, relaxers, straightening treatments
• Hygral fatigue: stress on the hair caused by repeated wetting and drying (learn more here)
• Over-manipulation such as brush styling and scrunching (surface damage)

Buildup

• Hard water minerals (learn more here)
• Product buildup
• Heavy ingredients in products such as oils and butters

Haircuts

• Long hair is heavier and can cause hair to elongate.
• If you naturally have straighter roots and only have curls from the mid-lengths down, cutting your hair too short can remove the curls.

Is it possible to alter your curl pattern?

Yes and no. You cannot change your follicle shape, so you can’t alter the pattern of the curl that grows out of your head. You cannot create a curl pattern that doesn’t exist naturally, however you can recover your curls if they are damaged and you can encourage your curl pattern with styling techniques.

If your curls were damaged by external factors, you need to get the damage cut off and your hair will grow back curly as long as internal factors have stayed the same. You can also strengthen the existing hair with bond-building treatments such as Olaplex No. 3 or Curlsmith’s Bond Curl.

To encourage your curls to look their best:

• Ensure you don’t have buildup by clarifying regularly using a chelating shampoo
• Deep condition regularly to maintain moisture
• Cut off damaged ends
• Enhance your curls with styling techniques that temporarily shape the hydrogen bonds, such as brush styling, finger coiling, and scrunching.
• Diffuse with techniques such as “scrunch diffusing” or “pixie diffusing” to set the curl shape

To elongate curls:

• Use heavier products such as oils and butters to add weight
• Use styling techniques that elongate such as raking in product and not scrunching
• Try “stretch diffusing,” “hover diffusing,” or air dry

My experience

It’s wild to look back at how my curls have changed over the years. What is so interesting is that as my curls became healthier as I transitioned from damage, my curls became slightly looser. It was also during this time that I experienced internal health challenges such as becoming anemic. I discovered this in 2021 after going to the doctor and asking for blood work because I noticed my hair thinning. I was very iron deficient and had to take iron supplements for over 6 months to finally have normal levels. (Do not take iron supplements without having bloodwork as they can be harmful if not needed).

It’s been over 6 months now since my iron levels have been in the normal range and I still feel my hair is thinner. I realize though that it will take a long time to regrow my hair back because that new growth will need to reach the length of my existing hair before I see fullness return. 

I also switched to a new hormonal birth control during that time, which I think has had a major factor in my loss of density as well. Although research is conflicting, I believe hormonal medications can lead to hair thinning. I plan to discuss this more with my doctor and I will keep you all posted as I continue this recovery journey. 

So what about my curl pattern? While it does appear looser now, I think it mostly has to do with my reduced density and shorter length. I think when there is less hair, it can change the appearance of your curl pattern and make it less visible. When I look closely at the curls that I still have left, they have a very similar curl shape as before, but looking at my hair overall there is just less of it.

Embracing your natural curl pattern

I also wanted to reiterate that we should not strive for a curl pattern that we do not have naturally. The goal is not to have tighter curls. The goal is to have healthy hair and be healthy internally. I know firsthand how disheartening it can be to see old photos of your hair and wish it looked the way it used to, but there is only so much we can impact. I hope this post helps you identify some of those changes your body or your hair may have undergone so that you have a better understanding.