How to Diffuse for Tighter Curls & Root Volume without Frizz

Diffusing is critical if you want to achieve more defined curls and root volume. But what if your curls turn into a frizzy mess when you diffuse? In this video, I share exactly how to diffuse for beginners to prevent frizz, flat roots, and spring up your curls.

There’s a few important steps we need to cover before you begin diffusing that will prevent damage and frizz.

More gels that won’t frizz while diffusing

TIP: Diffuse right after styling to avoid elongation, flat roots, and frizz.

For maximum shrinkage and volume, I recommend going straight to diffusing after styling. If you wait and let your hair air dry, it’s going to start to dry in a more elongated state.

If you plop your hair up in a towel, this will just press your hair onto your scalp, getting your products on your scalp and smushing your roots, reducing your root volume.

We want to avoid the time that our hair is wet, which is why I find plopping unnecessary. Diffusing right away will give you more control over how your hair turns out.

Once the hair dries, the shape is set, so whichever position your hair is while it’s drying is how it will stay. There are several different diffusing techniques you can use that will give you different results. Anything that will dry your hair while it’s in the scrunched position will create more shrinkage, tighter curls, and volume. Anything that lifts the hair at the root up will result in more root lift.

Touching the hair too much while it’s wet can also result in frizz. This is one of the reasons we use a strong hold gel which creates a cast to protect our curls during diffusing and hold them in place.

The Curlsmith Defrizzion Hair Dryer + XXL Diffuser is my go-to because it doesn’t get too hot for curls and still dries my hair in 10-15 minutes. The large size of the diffuser covers more surface area at once, and the flat design creates maximum shrinkage. You also want one that has prongs that extend out past the end of the diffuser bowl and have holes in them.

The settings I use for most of the diffusing routine are high heat and low speed. I sometimes will switch to medium heat towards the end.

The Curlsmith hair dryer has a kickstand which allows for hands-free diffusing.

Step 5A: Hover diffuse while hair is plopped over a surface

Purpose: Prevents frizz and elongation

The hover technique is the best way to avoid frizz and damage because the diffuser is not touching the hair. Simply hovering will dry your hair in a more elongated position, so to prevent that, I like to plop my hair over a flat surface or gently cup it in my hands so it starts to dry in the scrunched position.

Usually I will just hover for a few minutes, until I feel the cast begin to form.

I don’t like to let it form completely though because I still want to diffuse upright to really be able to scrunch the underside all the way up to the roots.

However if you’re really trying to prevent frizz, you can do this method the whole time if you want.

Step 5B: Scrunch diffuse right side up and upside down

Purpose: Creates tighter curls/shrinkage

Then I flip right side up and focus on cupping the hair in the diffuser and pressing the hair all the way to the root. Pay attention to how the hair gets scrunched into the bowl if you’re prone to wonky curls.

Don’t hold it too long either because we want to gradually dry all areas around the same time versus fully drying one section then moving on to another. This will prevent wonky curls.

TIP: To reduce frizz, point the diffuser towards your scalp once you scrunch up instead of straight up.

A little tip to prevent frizz to point your diffuser towards your head once you scrunch it up to your scalp versus keeping it pointed straight up. This can reduce frizz because the air is blowing in and not up.

I also make sure to get the underside because I am prone to stringy curls along my hemline especially when I’m due for a haircut.  This is why diffusing upright some is helpful to reach the back versus diffusing upside down the whole time. I also diffuse some upside down which helps to get the front section fully scrunched up to the roots.

Upside diffusing is one of the best way to get root volume because the hair is drying away from the scalp. You can also flip the hair side to side when you’re upright to create root lift.

Step 5C: Lift roots with diffuser prongs

Purpose: Creates root lift and root definition

Once I’m happy with the shrinkage throughout I start focusing more on the root area. I find that it’s easier to create root lift when your roots are damp versus soaking wet. Place the prongs of the diffuser right at the roots, lift, and hold for a bit. Don’t forget the crown area!

This is why I recommend diffusers that have prongs that extend out past the end of the rim. This not only dries the roots faster because the air is going straight to the scalp, but it lifts the hair away from the scalp as it dries. The Curlsmith diffuser also has holes in the prongs which allow the air to reach the scalp.

TIP: Alternate positions and don’t remain in one spot too long.

You can play around with the order of the techniques that you use. It doesn’t make a huge difference, but I find it helps to switch around throughout your diffusing routine. I don’t always do the exact same steps in a certain order.

One thing to keep in mind is the amount of time that the ends of the hair is exposed to the heat. The ends are the most fragile and prone to split ends and frizz, so avoid over-diffusing your ends. This is why a lot of people like to start with their ends and then focus on the roots so they aren’t touching the ends the whole time.

Your hair dryer should not be so hot that it’s burning your hair or your scalp. This is why I don’t recommend the Dyson because it gets way too hot for the curls and its diffuser is really small.

The Curlsmith dryer is able to dry my hair faster while using less heat because of the large diffuser size covering more surface area at once.

TIP: Let your hair set and cool before scrunching out the cast.

Once my hair is dried, I like to leave the cast in for a bit to let it set. You don’t have to do this, but I find it helps prevent frizz. If you’re short on time, you can let your hair finish air drying.

The reason I recommend starting with diffusing and then air drying is because the diffuser allows you to control the curl shape. Once it’s set and you feel a cast, you could finish air drying if you need to run. Don’t touch your curls while they’re setting and avoid wind.

Step 6: Scrunch out the cast & fluff roots

Purpose: Creates volume and fullness

After my hair is set, I fluff my roots and scrunch out the cast. You can leave it in for longer-lasting results. If you notice your hair feels damp, diffuse it a bit more.

Results

If you’re in the market for a new diffuser, you can check out my diffuser comparison video where I share the differences between all the dryers I’ve tried.