Most people describe their curls as dry, but what you’re seeing might not be dryness at all.
Soft frizz, limp curls, dullness, and lack of definition are usually signs of something completely different.
Today, I’m styling my hair using a routine that’s balanced with moisture and hold, and showing you how to tell if you’ve been misdiagnosing your hair this whole time.
After coaching hundreds of clients, almost everyone thinks their hair is dry, but most of the time, it’s actually an imbalance.
How to Tell If Your Hair Is Actually Dry or Just Lacking Hold
Before we get into styling, take a look at my hair below.
Do you think it’s dry or just lacking hold?

My hair here is just lacking hold. I let it air dry naturally without any styling products. It’s soft and moisturized because I just deep-conditioned!
Frizz doesn’t automatically mean dryness. And because dryness and lack of hold look very similar, it’s easy to reach for the wrong solution.
If Your Hair Is Truly Dry
- Feels rough, stiff, brittle, or stripped even after conditioner
- Little to no slip while styling; hands drag or snag
- Hair doesn’t feel flexible and may feel fragile
- Frizz looks sharp, staticky, or “angry” rather than soft
- Hair can still have definition or a gel cast, but has frizz
- Color may look dull or slightly lighter
- You used proper technique and enough gel, but the brittleness remains
True dryness is often caused by a lack of conditioning. If you identify actual dryness, the fix won’t come from styling alone. Clarifying (if it’s been a while) and then deep conditioning can make a big difference and help restore slip so your styling products can actually work
If Your Hair Is Lacking Hold (Not Dry)
- Hair feels soft, conditioned, and flexible while styling
- You have slip, but still see wet frizz
- Gel doesn’t grip or form a cast, or the cast breaks instantly
- Frizz looks soft and fuzzy (similar to humidity frizz)
- Curls lose definition quickly and clumps expand or puff out
- Hair feels soft once dry, not brittle
Lack of hold is often caused by using too much moisture or conditioning, or by using a gel that doesn’t provide enough structure.
If you’re still unsure, that’s normal. Sometimes a bit of trial and error is needed — adjusting moisture and hold one step at a time to see what actually improves your results.
How to Balance Moisture and Hold in Your Routine
Step 1: Optimize Your Water Level
The amount of water you use while styling affects how your products perform.
- Too wet: hair looks overly clumped, heavy, and hold gets diluted
- Too dry: hair is stringy, frizzy, and product won’t distribute evenly
Using a spray bottle can help you control the water content and not overdo it.
I start with my hair evenly wet, but not dripping, so products spread smoothly and form natural clumps.
Step 2: Optimize Your Conditioning Level
The easiest way to figure out how much moisture your hair needs is to isolate variables.
- Start with a gel-only wash day. This gives you a baseline.
- If your hair feels dry during styling or the next day, add a leave-in next wash day.
- If it still feels dry, add a curl cream.
- If your hair feels too soft, fluffy, or collapses easily, reduce moisture and focus on more gel or switch to a stronger hold gel.
Only change one thing at a time over multiple wash days.
What I’m Using Today + Why
For conditioning, I’m using Umberto Giannini Curl Jelly Cream. It’s lightweight, has good slip, adds flexible moisture, includes heat protection, and doesn’t overpower my hold.
If your hair is naturally soft or fine, skip the curl cream.
For gel, I’m using Umberto Giannini Curl Jelly Scrunching Jelly. It’s lightweight with low conditioning and medium hold. For my hair type, it needs a moisture base underneath to perform well.
This combo gives me softness without sacrificing structure.
Step 3: Optimize Your Hold Level
Gel is what gives curls their shape and longevity.
I apply gel in sections with plenty of water, rake it through, then style and scrunch. If it starts to feel draggy, I add more water.
Seeing a slight grip or texture from gel is normal — that’s not dryness, it’s hold.
Step 4: Style Your Curls
After gel application, I keep styling simple:
- Brush to smooth and distribute product
- Finger coil the top section for volume and curl consistency
- Scrunch to encourage curl pattern
- Microplop if needed, especially if you styled soaking wet or find that your hair gets weighed down from the water
- Add a little more gel if necessary, then scrunch again
Step 5: Diffuse
I diffuse using the Curlsmith Defrizzion Hair Dryer with the XXL diffuser, keeping it simple and diffusing until my curls are completely dry and set. This usually takes about 10 minutes.
Step 6: Scrunch Out the Cast
Once my hair is dry, I gently scrunch out the cast.
If your hair is truly dry, this is the point where you can add a small amount of lightweight oil to soften stiffness and lock in moisture.
If your hair is naturally soft or struggles with hold and longevity, skip the oil — it can soften the cast too much.
Final Results (Day 1)

Now that my hair is fully dry, I can see that I have balanced my moisture and hold levels properly. It’s defined, not overly clumped, and has just normal subtle frizz. Even though I have adequate hold, it still feels soft.
If my hair was soft, undefined, and very frizzy, that would tell me I didn’t have enough hold.
If my hair was defined but brittle feeling and frizzy, it could be dry.
Day 1 doesn’t always tell the full story, which is why I always check again on Day 2.
Day 2 Results & Assessment

Day 2 is usually the most accurate indicator. Here, I have not refreshed. My curls have a little more frizz, which is normal lack of hold from using a medium hold gel plus that curl cream underneath. My hair is still soft and touchable, not brittle or rough to the touch.
How to interpret this:
- Rough or brittle → true dryness
- Very soft but puffy or undefined → too much moisture or not enough hold
- Soft and structured → balance is working
Need Help Figuring This Out for Your Hair?
If you’re still unsure, that’s exactly what we work through inside my Group Curl Coaching Program. Most people join thinking their hair is dry — and within a few calls, they realize it was a moisture and hold imbalance the whole time. Oftentimes, it just takes that second, expert opinion on your hair to truly get to the bottom of your curl issues.
If you’re ready to stop struggling alone and want to finally stop hating your curls in 2026, reach out to see if you’re a fit for my Winter Group Curl Coaching Membership. Enrollment is only open through December 31st or when spots fill.
You don’t have to guess anymore — you just need the right support. To discuss if you are a fit, email me at info@genamarie.co or send me a DM on Instagram or Facebook with the word GROUP.
Weekly Holiday Giveaway
Win products selected by me based on your hair type!
I’m giving away curated curl product boxes during the holiday season, with 4-6 products personally selected by me based on your hair type and what your hair actually needs.
This isn’t a random bundle. I’ll choose products intentionally, using the same thought process I use when coaching clients — so you’re getting things that make sense for your hair, not just what’s popular.
To enter, join my email list using the form below.
No purchase necessary. U.S. only. Winners are notified by email.
Congrats to last week’s winner: Heather O!
I’ll be shipping out your custom box of products when the giveaways conclude in January.
Good luck and Happy Holidays!










