How to Determine What your Curls Need

Trying to figure out what is going on with your curls is like solving a math problem sometimes. It can be hard to tell the difference between various hair ailments and there are so many similar symptoms. Does it need protein or moisture? Is it just damage or are your products not right for you?

I’m going to walk you through how to diagnose your hair and how to treat it depending on its unique needs.

I’m also teaming up with Curlsmith for this video, one of my favorite natural hair brands. I love how their tagline is “Food for Curls,” because their various recipes are designed to give your hair what it needs. Curlsmith products are vegan and cruelty-free.

They are also having a sale on their Strength Kit which you can learn more about below.

Step 1

Examine your hair and determine if there is anything “wrong” with it. We all have bad hair days when our wash day just didn’t turn out the way we hoped, and that’s not always an indicator that something is going on. If you just had a bad hair day, watch this video to learn the Causes of Failed Wash Day.

What you want to look for is a sudden change in your hair or a sudden decline in your hair’s health. Symptoms such as frizz are always going to be there, but if you’re noticing an excessive amount compared to usual then there’s something you need to tweak or treat. 

How to tell if your products aren’t right for you

If you just tried something new and you didn’t like your results, then try it again in a different way such as on damp hair instead of wet, or adjust the amount of product used. However, if you have any of the following issues all the time then you could be using products that aren’t right for you or are poorly formulated.

Lack of hold

Symptoms:
– Frizz
– Curls fall and don’t hold
– Lack of definition

Solution:
– Use a stronger hold gel, better long-lasting formula

Too heavy products

Symptoms:
– Curls fall and appear limp
– Flat / no volume

Solution:
– Use more lightweight products
– Avoid heavy butters and oil ingredients if you have fine hair

Not the right formula/texture

Symptoms:
– Sticky
– Tacky

Solution:
– Opt for more slippery-textured gels, custards, soufflees

Products too drying

Symptoms:
– Dry, brittle
– Dull
– Curls fall stringy

Solution:
– Use more moisturizing products
– Look for film-forming humectants ingredients such as aloe and flaxseed
– Look for oil ingredients to help lock in moisture
– Layer a cream under your gel

How to tell if your curls need more protein or moisture

Protein and moisture are not opposites and our curls need both. Unless you’re doing something extreme like protein treatments, using a protein-rich routine back to back, or over-moisturizing your hair, you likely won’t have an issue. It’s also a common misconception that adding more protein will fix excess moisture and vice versa, which is not exactly the case.

The most foolproof way is to do a stretch test to test your hair’s elasticity.

1. Take a clean, dry strand of hair and gently pull it on each side.
2. If it snaps immediately your hair may be lacking moisture
3. If it stretches for a long way and then breaks, it may need more protein.
4. If it has a bit of stretch and then breaks with tension, that is a sign of normal elasticity and balanced hair. 

Moisture Overload	Hygral Fatigue
Overly soft	Mushy feeling
Damp/wet feeling, takes forever to dry	Damp/wet feeling, takes forever to dry
Weighed down	Limp, Curls have no bounce
Happens after one wash	Happens over time Prolonged damage to the hair
Solution: 1. Clarify with the Curlsmith Detox Kit 2. Use a lightweight conditioner or deep conditioner with protein like the Curlsmith Multi-tasking conditioner 3. Use lightweight stylers with some protein like the Curlsmith Shape Up Aqua Gel	Solution: 1. Use a bonding treatment like Curlsmith Bond Curl Rehab Salve 2. Shampoo 3. Use a lightweight conditioner or deep conditioner with protein 4. Use lightweight stylers

If you’re interested in trying some of the Curlsmith Strength Recipe products, you can save by getting the Strength Kit, which is currently ⅓ of the price ($25 off). The kit contains the Core Strength Shampoo, Bond Curl mini, Multi-Tasking Conditioner, and the Shape Up Aqua Gel (mini). Promo ends August 25, 2022.

Lack of Moisture	Protein Overload
Feels dry/brittle	Feels dry/brittle
Limp, stringy	Limp, stringy
Frizz & flyaways	Frizz & flyaways
—	Breakage & excess shedding
Happens after one wash	Happens with repeated excessive protein use when not needed
Solution: 1. Shampoo 2. Use a deep conditioner with light protein or protein-free like the Double Cream Deep Quencher 3. Use moisturizing or light-protein stylers	Solution: 1. Clarify with the Curlsmith Detox Kit 2. Use a moisturizing, protein-free deep conditioner like the Double Cream Deep Quencher 3. Use moisturizing, protein-free stylers

How to tell if your curls have buildup

Buildup is very common and is most obvious by the feeling of your hair. Buildup can be caused by products, hard water minerals, or just our scalp’s natural sebum. If you know you have hard water in your home, you will likely get buildup on your hair from the minerals. 

Product buildup	Hard water buildup	Oily scalp buildup
Dull appearance	Dull appearance	Shiny
Weighed down, limp curls	Weighed down, limp curls	Weighed down roots
Sticky/product-y feeling	Brittle/dry feeling	Greasy feeling
Products not absorbing	Products not absorbing	Products not absorbing
Wet frizz	Wet frizz	—
Hair doesn’t feel clean after shampooing, low lather	Hair doesn’t feel clean after shampooing, low lather	Hair doesn’t feel clean after using a cowash or a low-poo
Solution: 1. Pre-treat with the Curlsmith Super Slip Pre-Biotic Primer or an oil 2. Clarify with the Detox Shampoo 3. Deep condition 4. Style	Solution: 1. Pre-treat with the Curlsmith Super Slip Pre-Biotic Primer or an oil 2. Clarify with the Detox Shampoo or a special chelating shampoo for hard water 3. Deep condition 4. Style	Solution: 1. Shampoo 2. Shampoo again 3. Use a lightweight conditioner, avoid the scalp 3. Apply lightweight stylers

How to tell if your hair is damaged

Damage occurs from excessive heat, chemicals, hair dye, the sun, and wear and tear from brushing. This can make the hair harder to manage and require more attention because its higher porosity so it loses moisture easily and is weaker. If you have healthy hair, you may just be due for a routine trim.

Damage

Symptoms:
– Split ends
– Breakage
– Poor length retention
– Straight pieces or straight ends
– Tangles & excess shedding
– Stringy
– Dryness & loses moisture quickly 
– Frizz
– Hard to refresh

Solution: Grow it out and get frequent hair cuts

1. Use a bond repair treatment like Curlsmith Bond Curl Rehab Salve
2. Shampoo
3. Deep condition
4. Style with protein like the Curlsmith Feather Light Protein Cream and Shape Up Aqua Gel

Maintenance: 
– Pre-poo oils
– Frequent trims
– Protein deep conditioners

Overdue for a Trim

Symptoms: 
– Tangles & excess shedding
– Single strand knots
– Hard to refresh
– Breakage
– Stringy, straight ends

Solution: Get a hair cut or trim

Tying it all together

Which of these common issues did you resonate with the most? There’s not always a clear answer for the one thing your curls need because it’s often multiple things. You can have multiple “issues” going on at once and they will come and go. For most of us, these issues pop up all the time and it doesn’t necessarily mean there is something wrong with your hair, but rather maintenance that needs to be done. 

I hope this comprehensive guide helps you problem-solve with your hair without overwhelming you. My goal is to help you diagnose and treat your hair on your own since I am not able to work one on one with you yet, but hope to one day.