How to Pick the Right Shampoo for your Curls + Best Drugstore & High-End Shampoos

With so many types of shampoo out there, how do you know which shampoo is right for your unique curls? I’m going to tell you the characteristics that you need to understand about your curls in order to select the right shampoo.

CLICK TO WATCH THE VIDEO

In my opinion, shampoo will not vary that much depending on your curl type. Your curl pattern doesn’t matter, and our density doesn’t come into play here either.

Shampoos will vary in formulation based on:

  • How strong they are or their cleansing ability (multiple surfactants)
  • How much moisture they contain (opaque/white or clear)
  • Whether or not they contain protein

Shampoos/cleansers come in a variety of formulas:

  • Co-washes: very mild cleansing, no lather
  • Low-poos or mild shampoos: mild cleansing, low lather
  • Regular/classic shampoos: medium to strong cleansing, medium  to high lather
  • Clarifying shampoo: strong cleansing, high lather
  • Chelating shampoo: very strong cleansing, high lather

Here’s what you need to determine when selecting the right formulation.

#1 Is your hair prone to buildup?

Texture and porosity come into play here because certain hair textures are more likely to experience buildup than others.

Texture

The finer your hair is, the more likely it could get weighed done with buildup, therefore needing a stronger shampoo.

  • Fine hair: gets buildup easily
  • Medium hair: can get buildup
  • Coarse hair: may not get buildup as easily because it can withstand more product

Porosity

The lower your porosity, the more likely it could get weighed done with buildup, therefore needing a stronger shampoo.

  • Low porosity: gets buildup easily 
  • Medium porosity: can get buildup
  • High porosity: may not get buildup as easily but it’s possible especially when using products with sealing ingredients

#2 Do you use styling products with lots of oils, butters, film-formers, or sealing ingredients?

The more products that you use that contain ingredients that adhere to the hair, the more likely you are to get buildup over time. Also, if you like to add more product when you refresh, you may experience buildup.

Types of ingredients that can buildup:

  • Silicones
  • Polyquats
  • Oils & butters
  • Waxes
  • Mineral oil & petroleum
  • Film-forming humectants

These ingredients are ideal for stylers because they can prevent frizz, provide hold and definition, and fight humidity. High-porosity hair can benefit from these ingredients.

For those who do struggle with buildup but don’t want a shampoo that is too harsh or drying, opt for balanced shampoo that has a good lather for better spreadability.

#3 How often do you need to wash your hair?

The more oil that your scalp naturally produces, the more likely you will need to wash your hair.

  • Oily scalps: need more frequent washes and should incorporate stronger cleansers with less moisture
  • Dry scalps: need less washing and can use milder cleansers with more moisture while still rotating in stronger ones as needed

Shampoos with Apple Cider Vinegar are a great way to balance oiliness and dryness, such as the AG one below. It’s mild yet effective at removing scalp oil and product residue.

Do you need to wash more frequently due to intense workouts, swimming, or your job?

  • Frequent washing: use more mild cleansers to avoid stripping the hair
  • Infrequent washing: use stronger cleansers 

For those that need to shampoo very regularly, such as every other day, opt for a co-wash or low-poo to avoid stripping the hair. Ensure you’re rotating in clarifying shampoos on a regular basis to avoid buildup from cowashes.

#4 How hard is your water?

Hard water can be very damaging to the hair because minerals such as calcium and magnesium adhere to the hair and cannot be removed with a regular shampoo. The hair can become brittle, dull, dry, and even discolored for blondes. 

A showerhead filter will not “filter out” hard water. Hard water must be treated with special salt from a water-softening system to make it softer.

The best solution is to install a water softener system in your home to treat it at the source or install a water softener showerhead cartridge.

Hard water: avoid co-washes and mild shampoos. Get a chelating shampoo and a regular shampoo.

Soft water: use a regular shampoo

Chelating shampoos are strong so don’t overdo it. It will help, but if you’re still washing your hair with hard water after that, you’re fighting an uphill battle. 

#5 How damaged is your hair and what is your porosity?

The more damaged and high porosity your hair is, you can incorporate shampoos that contain protein to help strengthen it and prevent breakage. Protein is not completely necessary to focus on in shampoos, in my opinion, because it’s a rinse-away product versus something like a conditioner that absorbs or a styling product that stays on your hair.

The lower your porosity, the more you’ll want to avoid or use protein with caution. Excess protein or if every product in your routine contains protein, it can cause protein overload or a stiff feeling.

Porosity & protein use

Low-porosity hair: avoid or use protein with caution

Medium-porosity hair: use protein occasionally

High-porosity hair: incorporate protein

Shampoo with protein or bond-repair ingredients is a great option for high-porosity hair. The example below from Ouidad are also formulated to be a low pH which is excellent for smoothing the cuticle of damaged hair.

Protein-free shampoos are great for anyone, especially if you have low-porosity and/or coarse hair because protein can make it feel brittle. The Not Your Mother’s example below is strengthening and bond-repairing without containing proteins, making it a great option for these protein-sensitive hair types. Protein-free examples include:

Why do you need to have multiple shampoos?

Having at least 2 types of shampoo is ideal so you can rotate to treat different hair needs that can fluctuate. The basics include:

  1. Regular shampoo for regular use. Lather level can vary based on the characteristics we just discussed.
  2. Clarifying and/or chelating shampoo to use 1-4 times per month, depending on how much buildup you get.

How to shop for shampoos

Visit the shop page of my blog and use the filters to find what you’re looking for. Examples of filters that will help you find shampoos:

  • Category: Shampoo
  • Tags:
    • Chelating or not chelating
    • Contains protein or protein-free
    • Sulfate or sulfate-free

If you need more help finding the right products for you, watch this video to learn how to determine your hair’s characteristics. 

Related Posts

One Response

  1. I am confused. According to their website, the Not Your Mothers Curl Talk Bond Building shampoo has protein, however your latest video says it does not. Which is correct?

What are you looking for?

Search