Thin Curls Dos & Don'ts

Do’s & Don’ts to Make Thin Curly Hair Look Thicker | AG Care

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If you have thin, low-density, or fine curly hair and are struggling with your hair looking flat, see-through, or your scalp showing, then you’re in the right place. In this routine, I share 8 do’s and don’ts that will help you achieve more fullness and volume.

I’m partnering AG Care for this video, one of my favorite, high-quality brands for curly hair. Their annual Friends & Family sale is going on right now and you can get 25% off now until March 10. 

If you’re seeing this after the sale ends, you can always use my discount code GENA20 when you order.

Before styling, I shampooed with the AG Balance Shampoo and conditioned with the Boost Conditioner which are both great options for thin curly hair because they’re strong but not stripping, and will prevent your hair from being weighed down.

✅ Do: Style damp
❌ Don’t: Style soaking wet if you want volume

I’m sure you’ve heard me mention this before, but styling on soaking wet hair can actually reduce your volume. Try using less water when you’re applying your products. You still need to make sure your hair is evenly wet so it’s not stringy or frizz, but it doesn’t need to be dripping.

I do a combination of both wet and damp styling. My hair is towel-dried after I rinse out my conditioner, then I mist my lengths with water. I also brush through my hair so it’s evenly wet and you don’t see any patchy frizzy areas that are starting to dry. However, it’s not so wet that my shirt is getting soaked or it’s dripping on the floor.

✅ Do: Use a small amount of curl cream, opt for a leave-in, or skip it
❌ Don’t: Use both a leave-in and a curl cream, apply a large amount, or use heavy butters if your hair gets weighed down

Over-moisturizing your hair can weigh it down, such as using heavy butters or just applying too much. You also likely don’t need both a leave-in and a curl cream. Instead, use a tiny amount and focus it on dry areas.

I am using the Re:coil curl cream because my hair is prone to dryness since it’s medium to coarse textured. A little goes a long way, so only use a small amount.

Re:coil is great because it helps to clump and enhance your curl bounce. It’s totally optional though and you can even just use a leave-in conditioner.

I find that both leave-ins and creams are not needed together because styling creams moisturize and help style the curls, whereas leave-ins only moisturize. However, leave-ins tend to be a bit more lightweight so sometimes you’ll see me use a leave-in plus a gel or mousse only.

✅ Do: Use thin gel formulas with lighter hold gels to achieve more fullness
❌ Don’t: Use thick, sticky hard hold gels if you want fullness

Using gels that are very thick and sticky can be really difficult to apply, require soaking wet hair, and can make thin hair appear more sparse and see-through.

Opt for a gel formula that is more liquidy and thin in consistency so it will be easier to apply and can be used on damp hair. Lighter hold can also give the appearance of more fullness within.

A strong hold gel is important if you want frizz control and longevity, but you do get more volume with lighter hold options. 

I actually consider Liquid Effects to be a strong hold gel because I get the frizz protection and longevity of a strong hold gel, but it actually feels soft when it dries. You can customize the hold of this, and the more you use, the stronger your hold will be.

The more cream or moisturizing products you use underneath, the softer hold you’ll get from this gel.

If you want stronger hold, skip the Re:Coil cream. Liquid Effects is still very moisturizing so your hair shouldn’t be dry.

It’s one of my all-time favorite gels because it contains humidity-blocking ingredients and makes refreshing easy because it’s long-lasting and can be reactivated with just water. This is key because you don’t want to be layering on more products on refresh days, weighing down your thin hair.

Do: Create smaller clumps when styling
❌ Don’t: Overclump the curls if you want fullness

This may be opposite from what you hear most of the time for achieving volume, but styling upside down can result in your scalp showing and the hair becoming tangled.

Styling upright gives you more control over how your hair lays on top of your head. I can still achieve volume by brushing the hair straight up. I then can carefully arrange my part and see how the hair is going to lay.

This gives me more control over scalp covering. If you struggle with cowlicks or your hair parting down the back, use a handheld mirror so you can see the back. Using a brush, comb the hair over where it’s separated in the opposite direction.

Using a brush with dense bristles can help with this. The further spaced your bristles are, the more separation you’ll get and the more your scalp will show.

The way you part your hair can also affect the amount of root volume that you get. Opt for a messy part, or a very short part. Avoid a straight part that goes far back if you want root volume. Scrunch all the way up to the roots.

To cover thinning areas around your hairline, try finger-coiling baby hairs. This helps them curl better for me and prevents the shorter hairs from turning into a puff of frizz. Avoid over-clumping the hair beside it so the scalp isn’t exposed.

✅ Do: Add in a mousse, foam, or volumizer

This step is optional, but added in the AG Mousse Gel for extra volume and focused it around the roots.

Foams and mousses help plump and expand the curls. It can also help give your hair some “grit” if your hair is overly soft, too silky, and won’t hold volume.  Mousse gel contains rice amino extracts for curl enhancement and is moisturizing.  You could skip the Re:Coil and just use Mousse gel if you don’t need a ton of moisture.

This is also very lightweight and I find that it provides a soft hold, so I like to layer it with a gel.

If you think you need more hold or if you still see frizz, glaze in more of the Liquid Effects.

You can experiment with the order of your styling products to see what gives you the best results. 

In general, you want to use light hold products underneath and the strongest hold on top for maximum hold. When I use a foam that has no hold, I usually go with a foam first then gel.  When using mousses, they can be harder to brush through so scrunching them in after stying and after gel may be best. This may soften your gel cast though, so you may need another layer of your gel if you want strong hold.

✅ Do: Diffuse and use prongs to lift hair at the root
❌ Don’t: Air dry if you want volume & root lift

Diffusing is probably the most important step in this entire routine if you want volume. 

Air drying will basically result in my hair looking the same as when it’s wet, just dried.

Diffusing gives you more control over how your curls are going to turn out. You can achieve more shrinkage if that’s something you’re going for because the diffuser sets the curl shape.

You also want to make sure you’re using a diffuser attachment where the prongs are long enough and reach outside the diffuser bowl. This allows you to really lift the roots up for volume. 

You can diffuse upside down and flip side to side for more volume.

This step is optional but can also add more height at the root. Apply a few claw clips around the top of your head for volume. Finish diffusing or air dry with them in. If you prefer to only air dry, use root clips like these during the drying process.

✅ Do: Scrunch out the cast and fluff roots
❌ Don’t: Leave your hair crunchy if you want fullness

If you didn’t already know, you can scrunch out the cast to reveal soft, fuller hair. 

The cast is crucial for hold, frizz protection, and longevity, and you can totally leave it in for longer-lasting hair, but fluff it for more volume.

This is why I love Liquid Effects because my hair doesn’t become frizzy the second I scrunch out the cast. Make sure your hair is fully dry before you do this because you can also get frizz if it’s still damp.

If your hair still frizzes up, then you didn’t have enough hold in your hair. This can be from your gel not having enough hold, not using enough gel, or using too much cream or mousse underneath.

Final Results

AG Results

I always get such great results from AG. I love this combination of products which helped me achieve volume and fullness. It’s important to remember that thin curly hair is just as beautiful as thick curly hair! Having thin curls is not something that needs to be “fixed” in your routine. The tips shared in this post are there to help you if you prefer a fuller look. I hope you found this helpful, and reach out if you need help shopping the AG sale!

25% off ends March 10. Use code GENA20 for 20% off after the sale.

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