How to Get Stronger Hold + Tips for Preventing a Crunchy Look | Curlsmith #HotCurlSummer

This post is sponsored by Curlsmith. All opinions are my own. #HotCurlSummer

Now that it’s summer and a lot of us are dealing with humidity, or extreme heat & dryness, I wanted to share all the various techniques and products I use to get a stronger hold to prevent frizz in the summer. In this video and post, I will be sharing:

• A step-by-step styling routine for summer humidity
• How to get a stronger hold and increase your gel cast
• How I combine Curlsmith products for max hold
• Ingredients to look for in a gel
• How to avoid that crunchy, wet look
• How to get more volume while maintaining max definition
• How to prevent frizz when diffusing
• How to protect your gel cast for frizz-free, next-day hair

What is a “cast”?

A gel “cast” or “hold” is the coating or film that is formed on your curls once it dries. The gel cast protects your curls from getting frizzy, defines curls, and keeps their shape intact. Without a gel cast, looser curl types can fall out easily by the next day, and all curl types can get frizzy in humidity. A strong hold will make your style last longer and will require less work when refreshing.

Some downsides to a gel cast are that crunchy look and reduced volume. However, there are many tips and tricks that I’m going to share without that help the curls look softer and fuller but still have hold.

How to Achieve Stronger Hold on Wash Day

1. Start with clean, damp hair. Applying your products on damp hair results in a stronger hold versus soaking wet. Styling with soaking wet hair dilutes products. When styling on damp hair, spritz hair with a spray bottle to fine-tune the amount of water for your desired amount of hold + clumps. Most products have water in them anyways.
2. Use a lightweight leave-in or cream first. Skip the cream if not needed because moisturizing creams and butters will soften the cast. Using a gel on its own will give a stronger cast but could cause dryness if you have dry hair.
3. Section hair to more thoroughly apply your gel. If your gel is thick, mix some water in your palms. Apply gel liberally for maximum hold. Style by using a brush or finger coiling AFTER you apply your gel for more even gel distribution. Using a styling brush will also smooth frizz on each strand.
4. Scrunch with a towel if needed to absorb excess water, BUT it can remove product so a second layer of gel (“Smasters technique”) is likely needed for maximum hold. Avoid plopping, because this can remove product.
5. Diffuse right away to set the cast before it has a chance to break up. Air drying some first can form frizz if your curls are moving around or rubbing against clothing. Hover diffuse and avoid touching your curls with your diffuser to avoid disturbing the cast. Once the cast starts to set, scrunch diffuse as needed. Diffusing too long will break up the cast.
6. For and flyaways and frizzy patches that develop after diffusing, mix a little gel with water and smooth over frizzy areas. Diffuse if needed to set.
7. Avoid scrunching out the cast if you want the hold to last. If a softer, fuller look is desire, wait until your hair is 100% dry before scrunching out the crunch. Always have dry hands or serum in your hands when scrunching dry hair. You can also try just fluffing roots for volume but leaving the cast in the lengths of your hair. Apply a sealing oil or serum if desired for more humidity protection.
8. Protect curls at night with a satin or silk bonnet or scarf. I also like wearing a scarf to protect my curls from friction against fabrics when I am hanging out at home.

Ingredients to Look for in Gel for Stronger Hold

• Protein. Incorporating protein in your routine will increase definition and help hold your curls’ structure, especially if you have waves or a looser curl pattern.
• Polymers that give hold:
  • PVP: not as good in humidity
  • PVA: better in humidity and dry weather
  • PVP/VA copolymer: best of both worlds
  • Polyurethane
  • Acrylic copolymer
  • Polyacrylates
  • Acrylates copolymer
  • Polyamide-1 
• Polyquats that create a humidity-proof film:
  • Polyquaternium (usually has a number after)
  • Polyquaternium-4: is a superior film-former, very high curl retention even in humidity. 
  • Polyquaternium-11: less humidity-blocking, best in mousse and creams due to its moisturizing ability, more build-up
  • Not all Polyquaterniums are film-forming. Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-59, Polyquaternium-87, etc. are used for their conditioning, detangling or heat and sun protectant properties.
• Film-forming humectants: moisturize and create a protective film. Great for dry climates to prevent dehydration. These are often found in natural products and have multiple benefits.
  • Flaxseed
  • Aloe vera
  • Pectin
  • Xanthan Gum
  • Guar Gum
  • Marshmallow Root
  • Slippery Elm
  • Nettle Extract
  • Panthenol
  • Hydrolyzed Proteins
  • Peptides
  • Amino Acids

Products Used:

★ Get 10% off your first Curlsmith order with code GENAMARIE10 ★

• Curlsmith Vivid Tones Vibrancy Shampoo (used off-camera)
• Curlsmith Multi-Tasking Conditioner (used off-camera)
• Curlsmith Weightless Air Dry Cream
• Curlsmith Shape Up Aqua Gel
• Curlsmith In-Shower Style Fixer
• HairRepear The Ultimate Hair Towel,
• Behairful Professional Detangler Brush, 10% off with code GENAMARIE

I opted for the Curlsmith Shape Up Aqua Gel because it is the lowest in humectants out of Curlsmith’s gels. It also has protein, which helps keep curls defined. It’s a light hold gel, so I layered it with a bit of the Curlsmith In-Shower Style Fixer which has Polyquaternium-69 to protect from humidity. You could just use the In-Shower Style Fixer, but I find I get better, fuller and softer curls with the Aqua Gel. Using both products was the best of both worlds!

Day 2 Results, No Refreshing!

The amazing thing about getting a strong gel cast, and Curlsmith products in general, is the next-day results are always great and require little to no refreshing. I didn’t have to add any additional product until day 3!